자전거 피팅

	Knee Angle - Maximum Ideally the knee should extend to between 145° and 150° at maximum extension. Often an attempt to open the knee angle by raising the saddle will just open up the ankle joint instead. If set too high, the hips will rock, causing lower back pain and saddle sores. See Saddle Position and Crank Arm Length
	Knee Angle Minimum Once the maximum knee angle has been established, the minimum should be checked. Avoid an angle less than 70° as this can put high shear forces into the knee joint, exaggerates the 'dead zone' at the top of the pedal stroke and can cause discomfort in the hip and lower back. If too tight, you will need shorter crank arms. See Saddle Position and Crank Arm Length
	Saddle set back The simplest method for establishing saddle fore aft position is to hang a plumb line from the tibial tuberosity (the bony bump below your kneecap). This should pass straight through the pedal spindle when the crank arm is at three o'clock. See Saddle Position
	Torso Angle - Fast Torso angle is very dependent upon the cyclists choice of performance and comfort. A lower position is more aerodynamic as frontal surface area is reduced. 30° to 40° is a good compromise of performance and comfort but does rely on reasonably good flexibility to lower back and hamstrings.
	Torso Angle - Touring A more relaxed torso angle will take the pressure off the lower back, hamstrings and the neck and distribute loads from hands to seat. 40° to 50° is a suitable angle for longer distances where comfort is the priority over speed.
	Torso Angle - Very Fast A torso angle of <30° prioritises performance over comfort. Unless a rider has a very flexible lower back and hamstrings it is unlikely that this angle could be sustained without moving the saddle forward to reduce the hip angle.
	Upper arm and elbow Irrespective of torso angle, the upper arm should always be between 80° and 90° to the upper body. This puts the shoulder in a relatively stable position and distributes loads directly into your skeleton. If ever fitting a shorter stem, care should be taken to check that knees do not hit the bars when riding out of the saddle. A small bend in the elbows will help dissipate road induced shock load into your upper body. If you feel you need to ride with locked elbows, you are probably too far away from the bars.
	Hand Position Dropped handlebars are designed to offer a number of holds to facilitate both alternative torso angles and a variety of hand positions. This is to suit different road conditions and prevent discomfort due to staying in one position for too long. Once saddle height and set back has been established, stem length should be set such that the hands fall naturally to the hoods. This offers the alternatives of a more relaxed position up on the bars and a more aerodynamic position on the drops. If riders spend nearly all their time up on the bar tops, either their top tube or their stem is too long for them. The hoods should be adjusted such that the wrists are straight (as when shaking hands). See Handlebars
	Cleat Position The cleats should be positioned such that the ball of the foot is over the pedal spindle and to accommodate the natural toe in or out of the foot. The ball of the foot can be defined as the end of the first three metatarsals bones which can be found with a bit of light prodding. Alternatively just use the bony lump on the inside of the foot at the base of the big toe. See Foot to Pedal